Redemption

Here is the dirt on our new route on Bastin Wall that the Huisman's and I finished this week. An awesome route on great rock. This description was inspired by some of our local guide books here in the Bow Valley :)

Topo of the Bastion wall.
Second pitch of Redemption

Redemption 11d/12a 120m
L-J Roy, Shawn Huisman and Shelley Huisman July 08 06

Description:

This beautiful and spicy route will soon become a test piece for the accomplished and serious leader in the 5.11 range. Put in on an amazing tour of force by Roy and Huisman in the blistering heat of July 06. All bolted in one day and then every pitch was sent on the first attempt in a incredible push on the second day. Definitively proving who is in charge at the Bastion Wall.

Pitch 01: Same as Goldie 12 bolts 10c 30m

Pitch 02: difficult move up to the first bolt on good crimp 10+, climb past 3 more bolt to an 11a crux then cruise past 2 more bolts. Clip the 4th bolt from the top and down climb 5 feet and traverse right 5 feet, than climb up to gain a shallow corner. Step into the corner with difficulty 11d/12a than straight up over the small roof and past 3 more bolts to gain the anchor. 10bolts 11d/12a 27m.

Pitch 03: one of the best pitches on the Bastion Wall. Climb the choss corner for 5 feet to clip the first bolt then climb immaculate rock in a corner for a couple more bolts make a hard traverse right to gain a steep slab on the prow 11a. Clip the 6th bolt with a long runner go right into corner and traverse back left to the bolt after 10 feet of scary 5.9+ follow the bolts on sweet rock 5.10d to the anchor. 12 bolts 11a 30m

Pitch 04: A sustained and spicy pitch. This one should put a few hair on the chest of the most serious leader. Have fun waxing after this. 7 bolts 11d/12a 29m

Smile and despite the note of sarcasm (that is maybe only caught by those who don't climb second to their egos) this route description is true and accurate to the best of my memory.

Louis